In this video, we're going to be setting up your Bambu Lab H2C and get you printing with it. Let's get into it. First off, always consult your instruction manual. The packaging on these machines change a little from time to time, so there might be an extra step that's needed in, you know, a future version of the packaging. Most of these steps are going to be pretty much the same, though. So, starting off, the box weighs about 50 kilos, so lift with your knees, not with your back, and ensure you have two people to move this thing around. Now, I was a bit of an excited ape and opened ours with a box cutter, completely ignoring the four well-designed box clips on the bottom that you just pull out and it, you know, the top pulls off nicely. Regardless of how you opened it, though, on top of your box, you'll find an instruction manual, your box of accessories, and very importantly, the cool Bambu Lab stickers. Remove the top foam as well as all the packaging material and air cushioning, bubble wrap stuff that protected it on its journey to you and you should be able to take it out of its bag and place it on your shelf or bench or wherever it's going to be living. There are lifting points on the bottom of the machine as shown on that top diagram. Remove all the bits of tape from the outside of the machine as well as the top bit of cardboard which contains your glass lid. So, be very careful with it. In your accessory box, you will find your toolbox with an Allen key to take out the six screws holding the AMS unit in. There's two at the top on each of the sides and two at the bottom. Remove the supporting brackets and foam holding it in place. And it just kind of pops right out.

Then to remove that last bracket on the bed, there's four screws just holding it down. Now the bed is being held down with a bracket on each of the rails just to ensure it doesn't, you know, move around during transport. There's two bolts on the back one and one bolt on each of the side ones to remove them. Next, free up the hotend rack by removing the cable ties, being very careful not to cut anything else but the cable ties. There's a few fragile things in there. There's a few really small bits of foam in here that are easy to miss, so go ahead and look closely and maybe check that it moves freely. Next, do the exact same thing to the print head and cut away all the cable ties and remove the foam as well. Be very careful not to cut or damage that belt on the print head or you will be in for a very bad time. Push the print head forward a little to remove the extra bits of foam as well as the cardboard covering the head and push it forward a little bit more to remove the phone from the cable and tube chain. Then go ahead and make sure you remove the little bits of foam at the top of each three of the printers rails. It's also probably worth just doing a one more look over inside to make sure you haven't left any little bits of foam or tape or anything like that anywhere in the machine. Moving over to our AMS unit. Inside it, you will find the cables that it needs, the power and the data and the PTFE tubes, as well as the big block of foam at the front that you need to get rid of, and some silica gel packets that need to be removed, open from the packets, and then put back into the rear of the AMS unit. This just helps keep your filament nice and dry. Put your top glass lid back on and place your AMS unit on top of your machine or wherever you can place it that the tubes will reach to. And we're talking about those PTFE tubes that came in your AMS unit. Find the longer one and insert one end into your AMS and the other into the top inlet of your machine. When putting it into your machine, it'll go in a little bit and then naturally stop so you can't push it in any further. If you can see it poking through here from the inside, it is in the correct place. Then go ahead and plug your AMS into your printer with the six pin connector. Now your AMS likely came with a power cable, but you probably don't need that. If you're using just one AMS, the six pin connector can, you know, supply enough power to it just fine. But if you're connecting multiple AMS's to your machine, the extra ones that you connect need their own power source. In your accessory box is a spool holder. This just nicely slots onto the side of your machine. It just, you know, slots into place. Pretty straightforward. Then grab the shorter PTFE tube and slide it into the bottom of the machine exactly like last time. And then connect the other end to your spool holder. Ensure you've removed the tape holding down your machine's air vents and that you've also taken the safety key out and inserted it into your machine as well. Now we can finally plug in our printer and turn it on. The front touchscreen will run you through setting up the machine for the first time and go through its first time calibration, which shakes every part of the machine. So, don't be alarmed. Once that's done, it should then prompt you to set up the hotend rack, which it'll run through, you know, rack calibration and whatnot. Videos don't do it justice, just how wickedly cool this mechanism is in person. It's definitely worth the watch. Once it's done, it'll prompt you to load in your hot swappable nozzles, which you'll find in your accessory kit. And you just basically put it into each row of the rack. And then it goes through a process and reads which nozzle you have in which slot. Again, just such a cool mechanism to see in person.

If you haven't already, connect your machine to a Wi-Fi network and update it. If you are keeping it offline and just using the USB to transfer, you know, your print files to it, you can also update the firmware via USB as well. Regardless, updating the machine is usually a good idea here. And once that's done, we can get printing. Load a spool of filament into your machine if you're doing it through the AMS. You can just insert the filament into the inlet in the AMS and it will automatically sort it out for you. But if you want to load it into that side spool holder, you'll need to load it in through the printers menu, which guides you through how to do it. Through this menu, you can also start a print. There are some models preloaded onto the machine, including a Benchy test. You will just need to ensure that you have a spool of PLA loaded into the machine to start these because they're sliced for PLA. And that is your machine set up and ready to go. You can now go ahead and install Bambu Studio to slice your own models and print whatever you want. If you need a hand with anything from this video or you just have a question about the H2C, feel free to head on over to our community forums and ask about it. We're all makers over there and we're happy to help. Till next time though, happy building.