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Videos / Tips for Installing your Lulzbot TAZ 6 Enclosure

We have a Printer Enclosure Kit (by PrintedSolid) and we're going to take you through the process of putting it all together.

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Hey, Aidan here from Core Electronics and today we're going to take a look at the Taz 6 enclosure from PrintedSolid, so if you've ever printed with ABS or a couple of the other filaments that do undergo this phenomenon you'll have heard of or experienced warping off your bed so that's usually when a part of your print is cooling at a different rate to the rest your print and it causes it to shrink and warp off your bed it's quite a problem especially in colder times so it's currently winter and with winter in full swing I decided it would be the perfect time to go through this whole enclosure thing.
So essentially what's happened is PrintedSolid has put out this beautiful laser-cut panel enclosure which comes with all the laser-cut pieces that you need all the nuts and bolts you need and all you need to do is print off a few brackets, so four little brackets, and grab out the hex driver thing that you got with your Lulzbot printer and you'll be able to install this enclosure yourself so what we're going to do is have a look at the parts we'll have a look at the manual it comes in the Box (printed in color) and we will then go through how to print these parts really quickly, and start installing it and anything that I notice along the way I just include in the video so you guys get a better understanding of how it all comes together. So we'll start off like I said we'll jump over on the computer and we'll take a look at the slicer settings we're going to use to print our models.
Alright guys so to get our STL files that we need we can go to the product page for the Taz 6 enclosure which is right here, now if we scroll down to the middle slash bottom of the page you'll see the printed part file section there; so what you need to do is just download each STL so each one of those is just something straight to the STL that you can download and once you've got those you can open up your Cura slicer, and you can load the models in. Quickly going to the manual if you go to page 3 at the top that's step one and it tells you to print out two let's brackets one right bracket and one left cable bracket and they obviously correlate to the three that we've just downloaded, so I'm going to print out two left brackets so I'm going to open this up I'm going to multiply that by one for the two left brackets and then I'm also going to get a cable bracket, cable bracket, open and a right bracket open. Next thing I'm going to do is just rotate one of those models, actually, I'll just get rid of them and now that that's the number that we need we need four of them two leftm one right cable and one left cable and one right bracket but just to show you how I'm going to print one by itself so it's not confusing let's get rid of those.
So I whack that in the center of the bed now there's no real way of printing it because of this little post that comes out no real great way of printing it you're going to have to print support to that post one way or another so I actually opted to print mine in this orientation, so just rotate it 90 degrees in that way and essentially all I want to do is print supports from the bed the bed to the base of that post and the rest of it can print nice and simply so they recommend in the manual that you print it with a layer height of at least .2mm with four or more shells and at least 20% infill is recommended. So what we can do is jump from our standard print profile with PolyLite PLA, which is what we are using because I wanted to match the nice lulzbot green colored brackets to the rest of the parts on the printer. So we go standard and what we'll do is jump over to our full settings so that's going to copy those settings across, so we've got at least .2mm, now shell thickness and our Nozzle width is going to be 0.5 millimeter and they say at least four more shells so we'll say a 2.0 millimeter shell thickness and that gives us four total. Twenty percent or more, I actually printed at forty percent just because I really wanted these things to be solid and it might be a bit of a waste of plastic but hey I did it anyway, and finally the support type so touching build plate is one you're going to want for your supports and that will ensure that you're not printing any supports that are difficult to remove in these the screw holes.
So once you get that done, it's less than a gram is filament for those supports anyway so it's not too much, so yeah like once you've got those settings locked in you can go ahead and save your G-Code and print them out. For my settings I think all four prints all four models on the same print bed took seventeen and a half to 18 hours which is fine I just did it on a Friday afternoon before I left work so it wasn't too big of a deal the next thing you can do is unbox the rest of your parts, and take a look at them so we'll just have a look at what you need like I said you get this little baggie with screws and bolts in it, you also get your hex-driver kit out from when you get your printer. This should come in the tool kit with your printer, and if it didn't you can pick up little hex driver kits all around the place so you will need a four millimeter and three millimeter hex driver for this installation guide and obviously you'll need all these laser-cut panels, now each one of these is marked so you'll just be peeling off that that paper on the top of the acrylic panel and we'll be putting it all together up in order those steps. So let's get into it with the first step the second step sorry and then is skirt two which is installing the brackets on the front and the rear of the printer.
Alright guys so we've got all our little brackets fitted to our Taz 6 enclsoure, and now we move on to the fun part of peeling back for protective layers of our laser-cut panels and figuring out where they all go. 
Alright guys so we've gone ahead and put together all of our enclosure now I've gone and mounted these posts on which was the step we were up to when we kicked off, one thing that I will say about putting a post on that is not mentioned in the book is be very careful removing the screws from the frame of your Taz 6 and they are quite tight so you might need to crack them pretty firmly before you can undo them, and be sure not to round them off because that could be quite a pain, I imagine if one of those screws got rounded.
So you will attach all of those printed parts and posts here and then the next step is taking out the SD card and the little printed parts and nothing's protruding from that side of the control box and essentially what you'll be doing you turn your printer up on its side and you get four of the bigger M4 screws out and you insert this panel on the end of this curve so essentially your toes would be sitting up like this and you'll slide some bolts in the aluminium extrusions, some nuts sorry and then you'll use those screws to just bolt it down so that's the first step you then take this one out and this is just a drop-in part you get an optional other part as well so essentially this one's just a drop-in part when you're using the side mounted filament spool holder so that's one that we're going to be using but if you were inclined to a printed yourself a top mounted filament holder there's also an extra little piece of acrylic in there that you could have inserted, which is something good to notice. For the most part all of the instructions were really straightforward we just went through and essentially you build the front of the enclosure first and then you build the back both of them are pretty identical except for one or two pieces. The hardest part about that is holding the small nuts in so you can make the joints in all the laser-cut parts, but once you get into a bit of a flow with that there's not really a problem. So let's see how it all fits together because I have it all sitting behind me here and we haven't actually put it on yet, just from setup. All righty, feels pretty sturdy too like now that I've got it all assembled I'd be pretty happy to use it, so what we're doing is we're just lifting it up so it can mount onto these posts in the holes on those acyllic pieces on there yeah and the back piece does the exact same and if I've done it correctly, it should just snap on just like the front and there we go. So now I can have my filament spool holder up I've got my entire acrylic case going out and the feed tube of course feeds down into the top of the printer there so thanks for watching guys that's how you are assemble your Taz enclosure I hope that it was enlightening all those little tips and tricks that we go through apart from that enjoy Enjoy your abs prints with no warping. Thanks for watching guys, bye.

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