Alrighty guys, we're back here with our print. It's just finished on the bed. We can take a look at our Cura screen and see that our print has finished, and the total print time was 47 minutes, not 37 minutes and 40 seconds. This includes the cool down sequence which just happened before I started the video. So what's happened is the print is finished and it's gone to a cool down state until the bed reached about 50-degrees. At 50-degrees, it's pretty much the optimum temperature to remove your print from the bed. So that's what we're going to do. To do that, you're going to need your part removal knife which comes with your printer. If you don't have one, you can probably grab one from a hobby store or from the kitchen bench. Maybe use a kitchen knife. All it is is a flat-bladed knife with a bit of an angle on one edge if you can see that there. So what we're going to do is show you guys the best way to remove your print.

Now, the first step is waiting for it to cool down. It's very important. We're at 50-degrees. The print's moved forward. The print bed's actually entirely moved forward which is the end of the G-code sequence. So we know that it's ready to come off. Now we can see that there's a bit of a skirt around the outside, so I might flip that off, and it's as easy as just getting your knife under there and lifting it up. And that's pulled that off. Nice and easy. Now, to get the rest of our print off, what we're going to do is get our knife underneath each leg individually and slide it in until it pops off the bed just like that. So that is our print there. We can see that the skirt actually got caught on the print and it's actually caused it to string out of it. We can use our part removal knife to just pull those tags off if we like, or we can grab an Exacto blade or something similar which also comes with the LulzBot Mini, and you can use that to remove the parts from the bed.

I've got those three prints now, all of different heights and qualities. I'm going to whack the printer out of the way and we'll take a look at the finished quality of our prints because I think that's an important part of printing. God, I love that Mini. Alrighty, so I've got these three parts down here. Let's take a bit of a closer look at the quality. This one here was a fast high-speed print, you could say, and hopefully, we can see the finish of that. Now it's pretty good. If you look at it from the top down, you can see particularly in the top here there's a bit of a step up to that last tiny layer. Taking a look at some of the things that we were talking about prior to the print, we've got some stringing between those overhang areas. It's not super noticeable, but there's a little bit of stringing. The hands are printed really well. Now that's usually the problem part for these prints is the fingers. Usually, you see some stringing between those fingers, especially if you're printing at just too hot of a temperature. But it seems all in all that that one, which was printed in ABS, has actually printed quite well.

Now, that took about 25 minutes to print, and the finished quality of it is good enough, but I wouldn't say that it looks as perfect as we can get it with 3D printing. So that is a high-speed print, and these are both standard quality prints. We'll take a look at the difference in that. Now remember that this one was ABS and this one was printed in PLA. So bear that in mind, and we'll take a quick look at that. You can see that the PLA is actually quite shiny. It's quite a nice shiny finish, and that's just a feature of that poly white PLA. The bottom of the print is a little bit darker, and that's just because it's been pressed against the hotter temperature for a while. The fingers on the PLA model printed exceptionally well, like exceptionally well. If you have a look, there's absolutely no evidence of stringing. The only string that we've got is that little bit coming off the top, the little dag off the top of each point where the printer's finished printing on that layer. And the rest of it's quite nice.

Now this one, remembering the layer of it, let's have a look at what the layer was. So we're on our standard print profile. We'll go over to full settings and copy them across and look at the basic setting. We can see there that it's 0.25mm. So that was a 0.25mm print. We'll go back to our quick print menu and have a look at the ABS that we printed on, and like I said before, we used the high speed. So we'll do that. Switch to the full settings. And that's actually a 0.38. So those layers are actually 0.38mm, whereas these ones are 0.25, which is quite cool. And this blue one, I believe, was actually printed at 0.2 layer height. So that's just a fraction of a millimetre smaller than the green one, and this is the blue ABS print. Another octopus which also printed quite well. There is some stringing happening in our prints, which might require us to just tune up our retraction settings and maybe our print speed. But all in all, that was our first print. They are our three rocktopuses of different qualities. Thanks for tagging along with the chapter 2 of this one guys. In the next chapter, we're going to take a look at filaments in a bit more detail, especially things to do with warping, stringing, things like that, and we might even take a look at some of the things we can do to fix that.