Hey gang, Tim here at Core Electronics and today we're going to go through the overall workflow of creating a resin 3D print. I'll give you all the tips to go through this process so you can avoid making the mistakes I have so you can get the best results straight away.

So today we're filling this here tank with resin, we're starting a print via a USB and then once that printer is finished we're going to remove it from the build plate, we're going to clean that model with isopropyl alcohol and then we're going to do a final UV cure to complete this model using this over here.

Every time you print with a resin printer like this LD00H3D printer you're going to have to go through this procedure to have a sturdy and safe final model. This always needs to happen because these printed models will always have a thin layer of uncured resin residue which has to be cleaned off and also because the initial curing done by the 3D printer is not enough to fully cure that resin.

Whenever you use a Creality resin printer it's going to come with a USB that looks a lot like this or it looks a lot like this and these have printable models already stored inside them such as the omnipresent Eiffel Tower model. These models are pre-baked to work with any normal Creality resin you put into the system and the exposure time and first layer times are already going to be sorted.

Exposure time and first layer times are topics that will be explored in the next videos when we start creating these printable model files from scratch using different slicing computing softwares. Simply at this stage let's get printing ASAP.

Now quickly here double check that you've calibrated your print platform. If you have not check the description for a guide on how to do so. Now, making sure that all our PPP is on and the 3D printer is going to be turned on, let's stick a USB into the machine and then start pouring that fresh resin into the tank of the 3D printer. Filling to about the halfway point is perfect for these pre-installed USB models.

Then, using the user interface of the 3D printer machine, find your desired pre-installed model on the USB and just press play. As soon as you press play, the resin 3D printer will come alive and start moving the build platform downwards. Place the acrylic top back onto the printer, sit back, and allow it to run undisturbed until finished. A couple of hours later, you can now see a beautiful 3D print hanging upside down on your build platform.

So, once again, with all your personal protective equipment on, the first process is to remove that resin print from the build platform. We're going to set up an area that can easily be cleaned of resin. We're going to either use a silicone surface or mat, or we're going to lay down multiple layers of paper towel. We're going to take off that acrylic shield and we're going to remove the build platform from the 3D printer. This is usually done by unscrewing a thumb screw, and then we're going to lay that print platform onto the setup area.

We're going to take that metal spatula that comes with the 3D printer, and with a firm grip, flex it off the build platform. This may take a couple of attempts from different directions to do perfectly, and to make your life much easier at this stage, definitely consider using a magnetic build plate. If all is done correctly, the model is just going to pop off the build plate without any damage. You can then reattach the build platform to the 3D printer and start another.Print if so desired. Note here if you're printing with multiple different resins take the time to clean the build platform with IPA to get the best results. Curing and washing stations like this UW01 are the optimal post-processing method for resin-based 3D prints as they take all the hard work out of the cleaning and curing requirements. As you now know properly washing and curing resin 3D prints is crucial and these machines are an excellent way to handle the messy reality of resin 3D printing. It is possible to go through the whole workflow without a wash and cure machine but if you don't have one you're just missing out on the full experience in terms of print quality and ease of use. Once you have one you never go back.

At this point in the workflow we're going to be taking advantage of the wash stage. All the wash and cure stations are going to have very similar workflows so this is going to be relevant no matter what machine you have. For best model results fill this container with IPA. The container has markings on the outside showing how much you can put in there. Make sure to get a couple of liters of IPA when starting off with these machines. Three liters is going to be the perfect amount to get you to the top of this metal basket and four and a half liters is going to be able to fill up this whole container. This IPA can be used many many times for many many prints.

I recommend putting your just off the print bed components straight into the metal basket and then dunk it all directly into the wash tub. These wash and cure machines have the ability to hold the build plate but I much prefer putting the model directly into the basket. If your model is strong enough and hasn't got lots of little fine detailsGive that metal basket a little shake at this stage, otherwise place that acrylic lid on top of the wash and cure station. Using the intuitive touch buttons, turn on the setup and run the wash system for around six minutes. You can do more or less, so long as the model is clean. This time has provided me with the best overall results.

Doing this will turn on the agitator fan found at the bottom of the wash and cure machine, letting the IPA clean all the surfaces on your models. The acrylic cover has to be placed on top of the machine for this process to occur.

Once those six minutes are over, we're going to take that metal basket out of the IPA container. We're going to shake off the excess liquid. We're going to place it on a large silicone surface or multiple layers of paper towel in a well-ventilated area. Also, make sure to put the lid onto the container to prevent the IPA from evaporating away.

As a note, make sure not to leave the model in your IPA for too long. If you leave your model submerged in there for a couple of days, it's going to turn that model really soft, ruining the model. It's also going to be dissolving into the IPA, oversaturating your IPA. When your IPA is fully saturated, it is time to change it, but under normal usage, this is only going to happen after hundreds of 3D prints.

Then, we're going to allow the model to rest for around half an hour to an hour so that the IPA evaporates off the surfaces of the model. You can check this visually or by touch with your gloves on. If the printed part feels tacky after the first wash in IPA, re-wash the parts in clean IPA for another six minutes. Making sure that we still have our PPP on, as the model is not fully cured and touching the surface of the piece canStill be hazardous. This step is going to increase the strength of the model and make it perfectly okay for you to touch it with your hands.

Do not start this process until the IPA has completely evaporated off your model. If you start to cure it with the machine before letting this happen it's going to result in white marks everywhere where the IPA was. The UV evaporates the IPA off the resin part too quickly and this results in those marks.

With a model that is ready to be cured you can now take a container full of IPA out of the machine and place the round curing table onto the machine. We're now going to put our model in the center of the turntable. This is going to make best use of the UV lights. The round curing table has mirrors on the bottom to help project the UV lights under the print so you can get all the sides with a single cure cycle.

Now put that acrylic cover back onto the setup as this machine will not start without it and it is much safer when it is. Use the UI to start the curing process with four minutes a good starting point. The slower speed has always served me well but it's up to you. If you have really fine details a shorter curing time and a faster speed could produce a better end model.

If you over cure a model it's going to change in color, be very brittle and look kind of burnt. If you do not cure a model enough it's going to feel tacky and you can mark and smudge it with your fingers and it's going to be unsafe to touch. It's always better to under cure a model as you can always cure it more but you have to make sure that your final model is fully cured.

And once your curing machine is done you're going to now have your completely finished first resin 3D-print so just take a second toCheck it out. Future content is going to dive into figuring out layer exposure settings for more exotic resins, improving adhesion of your prints and all the tips on free slicing software that creates the files for your 3D-printers from digital models.

So with that, jump to the next video or until next time, stay cozy.